Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
